Tollhouse Rock Climbing

When: 2017-05-26 to 2017-05-29

For Memorial Day Weekend, we planned to climb and camp atop Tollhouse Rock. Having been there last year, we thought it would be fun to introduce Tracey and Louis to the area. The general itinerary was to climb in the morning and evenings when the sun would be less intense, while waiting out the heat in Prather while grabbing lunch. During this short span, we hit all varities of the climb: trad, sport, top rope, and bouldering.

Evening Approach

Side roads and avoiding traffic.

San Luis Reservoir.

Louis managing the watermelon.

Waiting around, recharging my headlamp. Photo by Louis C.

Tollhouse Traverse and Sunday Afternoon Slabs

The approach to the base of Tollhouse Rock has slight exposure along the way, but it's fairly secure. Just watch your head.

Tracey along the approach to the base of Tollhouse Rock.

Without much opportunity to use the zoom lens, I had to take advantage of the lead we had at the end of pitch 4.

Tracey nearing the end and anchors of pitch 3 to Tollhouse Traverse (5.5).

While waiting at the top of pitch 4, we were able to take more notice of our surroundings. With the haze in the air, the hills in the background provided a bit of texture or layers.

Bird in flight.

Louis and Tracey simul-climbing pitch 4 of Tollhouse Traverse (5.5).

Tracey, upon topping out on Tollhouse Traverse (5.5).

Louis, upon topping out on Tollhouse Traverse (5.5).

Francisco organizing gear at the top of Tollhouse Traverse (5.5).

Back in town, we went to Pizza Factory where Tracey recreated an asparagus pizza from France using forks and napkins. When placed near the pizzas in front of us, the contrast was stark.

French asparagus pizza, remade with a napkin and forks.

After lunch, we went down to Sunday Afternoon Slabs in an effort to minimize the amount of bushwhacking and walking during the approach. However, this approach had its own set of unique challenges when nearing the base. There, we started with the reliable Directissima (5.7).

Louis descending toward Sunday Afternoon Slabs.

While Louis started leading Directissima (5.7), Francisco led Center Crack (5.6) via an alternative route. Missing the anchors by 10 feet, he went straight to the anchors that mark the end of Directissima's second pitch. At this point, we had a few logistics to handle as I cleaned the route without bringing an ATC for my own rappel.

Francisco posing while rappelling from Center Crack (5.6).

After cleaning Directissima (5.7), Tracey led Center Crack (5.6) as described in the book. That is, by stopping at the bolted anchors.

Tracey cleaning Center Crack (5.6) while rappelling.

After Tracey descended Center Crack (5.6), Louis started racking gear for his own go at it. Francisco, on the other hand, had eyes for The Book (5.6). While rated similarly, the difficulty of Center Crack and The Book were wildly different.

Tracey, Francisco, and Louis preparing for their next climbs.

With the sunset upon us, we had to exfiltrate and head back to camp. Once there, the watermelon was waiting for us--and we, it.

Francisco posing with the watermelon.

Hippo Wall and Shaver Lake

Starting with a lead on Seven Bolts (5.7), we had to be careful before the first clip. The exposure and consequences of falling uncontrolled would very likely lead to injuries.

Tracey taking the lead on Seven Bolts (5.7) while Louis and Francisco spot her.

For the second climb, Louis decided on Fabulously Fresno (5.8).

Louis leading Fabuolously Fresno (5.8).

For his first climb, Francisco chose to follow Tracey's pick and lead Seven Bolts (5.7).

Francisco leading Seven Bolts (5.7).

After lunch at Prather, we took a detour to Shaver Lake. There we took a quick jump into the cold waters of the lake and had a relaxing afternoon. On the way out, there was a boulder that caught our eyes.

Francisco about to send the Francisco Boulder as Louis and Tracey spot him.

Initially, I tried to imitate Francisco's method of going barefoot. Due to the sharp edges of the footholds, however, I had to attempt the route with a variation: one shoe. This had Louis in stitches.

Louis cracking up at the one shoe variation.

Louis had the idea to include a dyno rather than continue with the static approach Francisco took. This eventually led to a variation where Louis was able to top out on the boulder.

Louis catching a ledge with a dyno.

Louis on top of Francisco Boulder.

Tracey on a neighboring boulder. Photo by Francisco.

I attempt the Francisco Boulder as Louis spots me.

Back at the campsite, we enjoy the second half of the watermelon. It's too dark to start another climb, so we relax at camp instead.

Group photo! Photo by a nearby camper.

When nearing the end of the watermelon, we decided to have some fun.

Tracey framed by a watermelon, held by Francisco.

Cap Rock and Heading Out

Looking back at our campsite from Cap Rock, we noticed at one point that there were two people examining the area. When they wandered over in our direction, we later found out that they were looking for the approach to Tollhouse Traverse (5.5). Rather than double back on the hike, however, they went off to rappel from the top, instead.

Campsite at Tollhouse Rock.

The first route we setup was on The Uncorner (5.10b). Since we did not plan on climbing trad, the only set of pro we had available were a set of DMM Offsets that Louis brought. Fortunate for us, they were sufficient when building the anchors for the belay.

Tracey climbing The Uncorner (5.10b).

Louis climbing The Uncorner (5.10b).

To avoid ascending the ropes with prussiks, Louis belayed from the top while Tracey climbed the route once more.

Louis bleaying Tracey from the top of The Uncorner (5.10b).

Practicing some basic crack climbing, we setup another rope on Hang Left (5.6). There were two variations that we found: to crack or face climb.

Francisco on Hang Left (5.6).

Francisco celebrating a hand jam near the top of Hang Left (5.6).

While Louis and Francisco were on Hang Left (5.6), Tracey was setting up the descent to Platinum Plus (5.8) which takes place on the arete. Louis eventually made his way to the base of Platinum Plus (5.8) to meet Tracey, where they both took a shot at the route.

Tracey approaching the crux of Platinum Plus (5.8).

Tracey and Louis at the belay station for Platinum Plus (5.8).

Taking our luxuries back to the car, we packed up and quickly made the descent to the car. While Louis decided to take a lightweight approach to the camping and general gear, Francisco and I walked out with relatively heavy packs.

Francisco walking back to the car.

While we won't be returning during the summer due to the expected heat, we had an eventful weekend of climbing. The fact that we could camp at the top of Tollhouse allows for an incredibly efficient and full day. The approach to routes, even those that are a far ways out, is still relatively short when compared to other areas. This all can be summed up as "a lot of climbing" Thanks to Francisco, Louis, and Tracey for the company and belays.